Shopping in the Seychelles

Mahé and Praslin Shopping

Shopping in the Seychelles is deliciously refreshing. There are no megamalls, nor are there swathes of international chains and designer labels. Instead, the islands' retail operations are truly therapeutic, selling genuinely local items, and business is carried on in a laid-back fashion with courteous and informed chatter surrounding buying and selling.

Some galleries and boutiques cluster together in Victoria, but in general they are scattered about the rest of Mahé as well as Praslin and La Digue. Most shops are open from Monday to Friday, from 08:00 to 17:00 (most close for lunch from 12:00 - 13:00), and on Saturday from 08:00 to 12:00.

What to Buy

Rather as Gaugin sailed to Tahiti in search of inspiration, many artists have been intrigued by the natural beauty of the Seychelles and settled here to follow their calling. Many work from studios which double as retail outlets, so visitors can often meet the painters, sculptors or craftspeople in person. A very broad definition of local handicrafts would run from soap to liquor to a souvenir of the archipelago's stunning beaches - bottles filled with coloured sand.

Where to Buy

Mahé

The first - and in some cases the only - port of call for many visitors is Camion Hall in Albert Street, Victoria, a one-stop handicrafts centre that stops well short of being a tourist trap. Kreol Or (Tel: 34 45 51) is a prime example of the temptations here - with creative designs using indigenous materials such as tiger cowry and oyster shells and a collection of 18-carat gold jewellery.

A marvellous array of South African diamonds, as well as less pricey gifts, is displayed in the French colonial surrounds of Kenwyn House (Francis Rachel Street; Tel: 22 44 40). A short walk away, the shady cool of the Fiennes Esplanade (Tel: 32 31 51) is home to a number of small arts and crafts shops.

The International Conference Centre houses Le Comet (Tel: 71 65 07) where Seychellois artist, Allen Gervais Comettant (who works as a graphic designer for the government) sells his original abstract paintings, made employing techniques he devised while studying in China.

Outside Victoria, inspired by the colours and shapes of the Seychelles' flora and fauna, Sharon and Les Masterson turn out beautiful stained glass at their studio, Thoughts (Bel Air Road; Tel: 32 12 54).

At La Marine (Domaine de Val de Prés, Au Cap; Tel: 37 51 52) a team of young craftsmen, working to plans from naval museums, breathe life into models of historic ships.

The Potters' Cooperative (Union Vale, SIDEC Industrial Zone; Tel: 32 13 78) specialises in handcrafted ceramics that include both gifts and household items. A slightly smaller operation, Later Rouz (Domaine de Val des Prés; Tel: 37 60 94) is equally imaginative.

Two outlets offer some memorable souvenirs in the shape of home-brewed liquor. Renato Longobardi, who was trained by Trappist monks in Rome, produces spirits made from citronelle, coconut and cinnamon at Spirit Artisanal Seychelles (Union Vale; Tel: 32 45 56). At Trois Frères Distillery (Providence Industrial Estate; Tel: 60 14 70/1/2) they distil Takamaka rum according to the original d'Offay family recipe.

Filling bottles with coloured sand started as a hobby for Giovanni di Maio, but it has turned into a thriving business. No two DiLu Magic Bottle designs are the same, as the sands are layered forming their own unique patterns. (At Beau Vallon; tel 71 32 28).

Kreolfleurage Parfums (North East Point; Tel: 24 13 29) is the only perfume manufacturer in the Indian Ocean, and was founded by Dagmar Ehlert in 1988. Her unique range of products includes perfumes, perfumed lotions and soap produced from a base of essential oils from the region and further afield.

Silkwater Graphics (Tel: 41 04 55) produces a wide range of products but its glasswork - which includes cards, photo frames, wine bottles and mouse pads - is most eye-catching.

John Bouzin also works with glass, in his case mirror painting, with subjects ranging from landscapes to prominent buildings in the Seychelles. His studio is at Nageon Estate, Pointe Larue (Tel: 57 36 89) but examples of his work are also displayed at Artisans des Îles in Camion Hall, Victoria.

For the best part of the last quarter century Elisabeth Ragain has been depicting the wonders of the Seychelles through her watercolours, which are elegantly displayed at The Natural Art Gallery (Grand Anse; 55 80 41).

The sea views and coastlines of Baie Lazare find their way into the watercolours of Donald Adelaide (Tel: 59 30 38 / 36 10 67), who has been working from his studio here for the past two decades. Another water colourist, Andrew Gee (Tel: 36 16 49 / 71 26 77), who trained at St Martin's School of Art in London, works nearby.

Antonio FilippinItalian-born sculptor Antonio Filippin (Anse Gouvernement, Baie Lazare; Tel: 51 09 77/ 36 18 12) produces complex carvings from coral and wood, which express his philosophy of the harmony of life.

Colbert Nourrice (Domaine de Val des Près, Au Cap; Tel: 37 59 52) is generally reckoned to be one of the most promising young artists in the archipelago, having developed a narrative style of painting using signs, symbols and motifs framed to form a striking tapestry of linear images reminiscent of Egyptian hieroglyphics.

Finally, there is the highly contemporary artist, Egbert Marday (La Misère; Tel: 37 84 56) who produces paintings in acrylics, oils, collages or mixed media, and constructed from wood, plaster of Paris, metal, clay and resin.

Praslin

The Black Pearl Shop (Amitié; Tel: 23 31 50) is justly renowned far beyond the shores of Praslin for its selection of high-class jewellery and other exotic creations fashioned from locally-cultivated pearls from the Seychelles Black Lip Oyster.

The self-explanatory Gallery & Art (Anse Volbert; Tel: 23 21 70) at the Café des Arts displays paintings, sculptures and crafts from some of the island's best-known artists including Michael Adams, Sheila Markham and Christine Harter, as well as jewellery and hand-made wooden and coconut artefacts.

At the Casino de Îles (Côte D'Or; Tel: 23 29 56) the George Camille Art Gallery houses etchings, watercolours, pencil and pastel drawings, silk paintings and acrylic and relief collages by Camillem capturing the colour and spirit of Creole life. The artist has exhibited extensively since 1983 in London, Paris, Martinique, Mauritius and Réunion as well as the Seychelles.

La Digue

On Anse Reunion, Barbara Jenson (Tel: 23 44 06) works in many different media including watercolour, gouache and acrylic on paper and canvas, as well as varnish and pigments on aluminium sheet. A small gallery adjoins her studio.

Nearby, Green Gecko (Tel: 23 44 02) is another outlet for the work of George Camille (see Praslin section).

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